ROAD HOME THROUGH MARFA

Amazingly enough, it was only when a stretch of drive through the Guadalupe Mountains National Park seemed awfully familiar that I recalled I’d spent another early December climbing the highest mountain in the state of Texas—nearly fifteen years ago to the day on my birthday. At the time I’d recently quit my library technology job in Chicago to become an intern at the Chinati Foundation, where I led tours of the collection and fantasized that I had been invited there as an artist in residence instead (never mind the fact that I had no art practice to speak of). I was ashamed to have quit a position to become an intern, but was convinced this was my only hope for experiencing a few uninterrupted months under a huge West Texas sky.

I returned for most of 2009 to work on a project at Judd Foundation when the itch for the Chihuahuan Desert resumed. This stint introduced me to two dear friends whose endurance for small town living continues to impress me. The first time I met Shelley she was attempting to warm the drafty apartment we’d share above the Judd ranch office by opening the oven door. I remember many evenings in the unheated kitchen eating in fingerless gloves, as if we were camping rather than across the street from Lance Armstrong’s proposed training outpost. (The wifi network that showed up at the same time as his moving trucks? Livestrong.)

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These days Shelley lives at and helps sail the Marfa Yacht Club, where she has her own airstream trailer. The view is much more expansive, as seen above, and I think she finds it a lot easier to keep toasty

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Sandro and I also met on the job, when I took a couple of weeks off of cataloging and indoor camping to assist on adobe construction and pitch an actual outdoor tent for shelter. Where ever he’s set up, you’ll be sure to find large jars of regional clays in an array of different colors nearby to use for plastering.

Last year when I was in town, I brought some collages and a tub of wheatpaste. While this wasn’t an the experiments I was likely to share at the time, it is one of the interventions I was readily able to locate and document on this visit. The original composition is below, which gives a sense of what a year out in the elements does to a fragment of Penelope Cruz’s chin and neck topped off by a waterfall.

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EVEN MORE SNOW

The third storm was by far the most plentiful, turning even an unassuming tangle of arroyo weeds into something enthralling. Familiar outlines of the mountains went missing in the fog alongside references to many smaller landmarks.

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I wanted nothing more than to lay the first set of tracks in the field behind the courthouse, but hesitated remembering how many burrows there were and how unfortunate it would be to step directly into one. It turned out the den entrances were more pronounced than ever—as was my satisfaction at kicking up an untouched layer of snowflakes.

Snow day shots of the studio, outside and in.

SECOND SNOW

As stunning as the dense, wet snow that blanketed the residency this morning was the scene not six hours later as it melted everywhere but the mountain, leaving an evening light in such an illuminating, hazy pastel I stopped in the grocery store parking lot in an attempt to capture some bit of the splendor.

TAOS MOUNTAIN BALLOON RALLY

I never had one bit of interest in watching hot air balloons lift off until they were scheduled to do so around the corner from the Wurlitzer and a couple of favorite people were game enough to brave freezing temperatures on a Saturday morning to watch them take flight.

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The scene was the now familiar dusty field behind the courthouse with scattered vendors hawking wind-powered lawn ornamentation. Many of the patterns looked like they were straight out of the 1970s, a reference no doubt bolstered by the booming soundtrack of classic rock radio and the nonchalance with which large amounts of propane pumped into open enclosures at close proximity to small children and dogs. 

At one point there was uncertainty that the balloons would be able to lift off, due to concerns about them landing on Pueblo land. This was communicated by a rally participant and I’m not sure I totally understood the gist of all that was at stake. Ultimately, they did all get up into the air, many of which landing shortly thereafter in an almost comedic anti-climax in adjacent fields, signaling an apt time to wander home and reheat numb toes.